Since 1864, five generations of the Fenocchio family have been producing wine in the heart of Barolo – most of them born in the same yellow house in Monforte d’Alba, at the top of a hillside covered in Nebbiolo grapes. Claudio Fenocchio took upon his father teachings and instead of modernazing the Barolo winemaking techniques, he and with the support of his brothers decided to keep the tradition and build on it. Fenocchio has not taken up organic or biodynamic farming methods but, on the other hand, the estate never took to chemical fertilisers or herbicides, so diverse ground cover and natural predators protect the vines, which grow at their own pace. And in the winery, fermentation is similarly driven by nature and the local microflora. Technically, Claudio has found a way of producing wines which have approachable fruit when young, yet built around a strong tannic structure which does not overwhelm early on, but encourages the development of the wine over years. It is partly due to some green harvesting and careful selection, partly due to enzymatic reaction (ironically) during the long fermentation, which melds the fruit and tannin seamlessly. Barolos are aged for five months in stainless Slovenian oak and a further year in the bottle before release. steel, two years in Slovenian oak and a further year in the bottle before release. More than defining itself as traditional or modern Barolo, Giacomo Fenocchio wine is an expression of terroir.
